1911 Builders frame finishing steps

You must follow this sequence when finishing the frame to ensure proper frame to slide fitment before assembly.

(Sear and Hammer holes) Step 1

Use the supplied pins with the decking fixture and pin the frame into the fixture. You can use a drill press or cordless drill to drill through the frame.
After drilling you need to countersink THE LEFT SIDE ONLY both sear and hammer hole with a 1/4 drill bit. When drilling pull out from the hole several time to remove chips while drilling. USE OIL SEVERAL TIMES WHILE DRILLIN




To prepare for decking, measure these 2 locations (hammer hole to the top of the frame)(slide catch hole to the top of the frame) and write down starting measurements for both before decking. you need to know your starting dimensions before decking. Use the slide catch measurement to determine how much material needs to be removed while decking. Your final dimension for slide catch hole to the top of the frame is .348 If it measures .020 to high remove the same .020 at the rear of the frame.


(DECKING) Step 3

The Decking fixture is for files only no belt sanders or Dremels. For decking the top and dust cover use a cheap Home Depot 8″ file or equivalent. The fixture has hardened rods on the edge that will keep you from filing to low. File across the frame keeping the file as flat as possible. Do the same to the lower section as well. Use a straight edge across the fixture to check on your progress. Make sure the top is as flat as possible and check that you have removed the same amount of material evenly across the frame. To remove file marks sand upside down on a hard flat surface with 200 then 400 grit sandpaper and with oil.

This must be done correctly before using the PRC rail cutter.





The deck height must be done before cutting the rail groove. Follow proper assembly instructions when assembling the PRC and use the supplied grease to grease the walls of the PRC. Make sure your blades are back before you bolt your frame to the CAR. Double check the threaded shaft moves freely by hand when tight. If your frame does not fit down inside the PRC do not force it, STOP and proceed to frame thinning before cutting rails.

After the frame is bolted down, turn the threaded shaft until the frame is in the middle of the cutting gate (the 2 blades) Slowly turn the adjuster knobs until they lightly touch the frame (do this on both sides.)This is your “Zero point,” note each sides adjuster knob position by the white dot on the back (they might be different.) You’re ready to start cutting, while making a cutting pass do not stop in the middle of your cut, it will leave a dent in the groove. If you’re using a cordless drill, always cut at the low speed. You do not need to open the cutting gate when returning to the start position, just keep closing the blades every cutting pass. Each 1/4 turn of the adjuster knob will remove .003 of material per pass, per side. Use your supplied slide to get your final frame groove dimension it will be .062-.065 deep approx. It will take at least 5 full turns of the adjuster knob to get to your target depth. Use cutting oil on the blades and the frame and oil every full turn of the adjuster knob. Use a cordless drill on the threaded shaft to advance the frame forwards and back. When cutting, never take more than ¼ of a turn when cutting.


Run the car forward, past the cutting blades and close each adjuster knob 1/4 of a turn. This Will be your first cutting pass .003 per side approximately. Run the frame through the cunning gate and return back to the beginning, forward of the cutting gate. Close each adjuster knob 1/4 and make another cutting pass. Now you want to make sure it’s cutting evenly on both sides and is centered to the frame. Use your calpers and measure the the left cut to the edge of the frame. Do the same to the right side, you want them to be the same measurement. If not make a cutting pass on the side that is bigger in dimension until they are even and centered.


Now that the frame is even on both sides, continue cutting to your target depth. Remember to apply cutting oil on the blades and the groove being cut every full turn of the adjuster knob. Remove the cutting chips every 1 or 2 full turns to keep it clean. USE THE SUPPLIED GREASE ON THE WALLS OF THE PRC EVERY 2 FULL TURNS OF THE ADJUSTER KNOB. THIS IS CRITICAL IN KEEPING THE CHATTER OUT OF YOUR CUT. YOUR CUT SHOULD BE CLEAN AND SMOOTH. CUT ANY CHATTER OUT ASAP, DO NOT KEEP CUTTING!!! 


To cut out any chatter (MAKE SURE PRC IS WELL LUBED) take extra small cutting passes, instead of ¼ on the adjuster knob take a 1/12 of a turn on the adjuster knob. Keep track of your measurement (DO NOT WAIT TILL THE END TO THIS AS THE FRAME WILL BE TOO THIN TO CORRECT.) Do 6 passes 1/12 turn at a time this should clean it up.


After your frame groove is cut, it’s time for frame thinning. On the frame the material above the slide groove is too wide and will need to be thinned in order for the slide to fit usually (.006 on both sides.) In the PRC kit there is an aluminum spacer plate that will lift the frame out of the groove and allow the PRC to do this cut. Unbolt the frame (PUSH BACK IN YOUR CUTTING BLADES TO RE ZERO) and insert spacer to the frame and bolt back down. Use the same zeroing technique to reset the cutting blades to the frame. Run the frame to the start position, adjust the cutting blades ¼ each and make a pass. Double check your dimensions and adjust the knob again ¼ turn than make a cutting pass. This should have cut off .006 per side and .012 overall. Unbolt your frame and check if your slide fits, if not, just use files to remove material until your slide fits.